Our Trip - Mapped Out

Here's a map of everywhere we went. We were fortunate to be able to travel by plane between cities so we could cover more ground.

1. Hanoi - Green Diamond Hotel
2. Halong Bay - Annam Junk (booked through our hotel)
3. Hanoi - Green Diamond Hotel
4. Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) - Hoang Hai Long Hotel
5. Phan Rang - Aniise Villa Resort
6. Hoi An - Betel Garden Homestay
7. Saigon - Pavilion Hotel

I've included the names of the hotels for anyone who may be traveling to Vietnam in the future. Of course feel free to contact me for more info on any or all of our trip.

Kathy

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

Three weeks, more than 11,000 miles, 19 taxis, 12 scooters, 9 planes, 8 buses, 6 hotels, 5 cities, 4 cyclos, 3 boats, 1 junk, 1 kayak, 1 bicycle, and 1 rental car. We’re home safe and sound. Back to school and back to work. Can’t believe we went and can’t believe it’s already over. It truly was an amazing time and such a blessing for us both.

Since this isn’t just a travel blog, but also a way for us to remember our trip, I’ll be playing catch up and will post more stories and pictures. If you’re signing off now, thanks for following and supporting us. If you're waiting for more, hang in there, it's coming.

Thanks for reading. Love, Kathy

Friday in Phan Rang (Day 13, Day 3 with Catalyst)

Today was our third day working at the Catalyst community. We arrived 30 minutes earlier today, to try to gain a little ground on the remaining work. The medical team was busy seeing more families – we saw 50+ today. It’s very slow going as many of the people have multiple issues to discuss with the doctors. The dentist was also busy with check-ups and several extractions. We have one Dr., one PA, one dentist, two women working pharmacy, one social worker doing intake, and several team members to enter patient information.

I can hardly wrap my 1st world brain around the fact that these families don't have the very basic things every living creature needs - WATER! It's just not OK! We as Americans and/or as Christians, can't be ok that most in this community don't have enough water to drink, let alone cook or maintain proper hygiene.

The construction team was painting the house today, inside and out. They are working so hard and doing a great job!

The kids are really coming out of their shells with us and we are all enjoying playing with them and just holding their hands. I took my camera today and took lots of pictures of the beautiful faces we see every day. It’s sad to think about saying goodbye tomorrow – Grace has already warned us that she will cry hysterically!! She has a little fan club and really likes playing with the kids.

Family Waiting Area

Families receiving information after de-worming treatment.

Our hard working dentist.

Our pharmacy team.

Grace and her new BFFs.

Me & Lem. She's the leader of this community and my new hero!

 

 

Thanks for reading. Love, Kathy

So Long, Hanoi. Hello, Saigon (Day 6)

Grace and I were up and ready by 9:00 and instead of breakfast, she wanted to do some last minute shopping. We went back to get another backpack and a quick snack at the convenience market across from our hotel. We settled our bill, said goodbye to Gam, and headed for the airport. Our flight was delayed but we had free wi-fi so the time passed quickly. The flight to Saigon was a bit over 2 hours but seemed like a snap compared to the long flight we took to get here. Of course we were served a meal - Asian airlines treat you very well. Soon we were landing in Saigon, Grace’s hometown. She kept saying she wanted to go back to Hanoi, and she knew she was not going to like Saigon. We gathered our bags and made our way to the taxi stand and soon were on our way to our hotel.

Can I just say – OH! The heat! It is so hot and humid here, it is stifling. Phoenix hot and Florida humid. ALL.YEAR.LONG. And the construction here is unbelievable. So much going on - even a new city is being built.

We checked into the Hoang Hai Long Hotel. It is very beautiful. It is in District 1, near the Ben Thanh Market. We saw some familiar sites in the surrounding area – Circle K, Dunkin Donuts and Carl’s Jr.!! That is just crazy to me.

We headed out to check out the area, but it was already getting dark, so we stopped at Circle K for some drinks and snacks and headed back to our hotel. We settled in to our small room, where it seems our suitcases have exploded!! It will be great to unload the nearly 100 pairs of flip flops we brought so I can actually organize our things. I also will give some gifts to Thuy and her family, so that will free up some space, too. Of course, we'll be filling up what space we have with lots of souvenirs and gifts.

We turned in pretty early after showers and snacks. We’ll have another exciting day tomorrow.

 

Thanks for reading. Love, Kathy

Vietnam - Land of a Million Stairs (Day 5)

We awoke once more to the beautiful scenery of Halong Bay. The mornings are spectacular with the haze making everything look so magical. We had an early breakfast and headed off to tour a huge cave. We waited with many other tourists while Tung purchased our tickets and soon were on our way. Up, up, up the stairs. There must have been at least 100. Ok, I was dying. But I made it to the top and into the cave. There were 3 caves actually, and they were amazing. There was a stone pathway (and more stairs) throughout, but it was worth every step! We rubbed our money on the lucky turtle rock formation and were soon through the last cave. At the exit was a gift shop and there were also a few women in boats selling fresh fish. It was a very interesting side trip and very worth the time.

Back on the boat it was time to pack up and get ready to head back to Hanoi. The kids were ready to be back to the land of wi-fi and I think the adults were as well. I spent some time talking to one of the crew members, the very underworked bartender. He was young with a wife and baby girl at home and he told me about his job and his family. We had one last lunch aboard the boat and returned to the harbor.

Back in the van and on the road, I sat up front with the driver. You really see some crazy things and some even crazier driving! Our driver was very patient and never honked, which I think is rare in Vietnam! We stopped at another rest stop and all had ice cream before hitting the road again. The trip back to Hanoi took less time and we were soon back at the Green Diamond Hotel and were greeted by Mrs. Gam. We said goodbye to Tung, and made plans to go out with him in the evening. Up to our rooms for some rest and wi-fi and everyone was happy. I hitched a scooter ride from the bellman to a camera store. I was hoping I only needed new batteries for my (brand new) camera and that was the case. Back to the hotel in less than 10 minutes and I can start taking pictures again!!

Tung returned at 5:00 and we set out to see more of the Old Quarter. I’m sure we were quite a site – 10 of us trailing along behind our guide. We crossed many streets and wound our way further and further into the city. We finally arrived at our first stop, a tiny restaurant in a tiny alley between 2 buildings. Tung ordered up 2 dishes for us to choose from – pho (Vietnamese rice noodle soup) or a glass noodle bowl with chicken and pork meatballs. Grace had the pho (of course) and I tried the glass noodles. The lady came and fixed mine for me, adding fresh lime juice and chili sauce and mixed the heck out of those noodles with my chopsticks! The food was fantastic and very spicy and I was really wishing for some water or something to drink!! Our first experience with street food was fun and quite exciting and I look forward to doing it again soon!

We paid our bills – ours was $3!! – and we were off to a cell phone store to buy selfie sticks. Tung had one on the boat and all the kids wanted one. Then we headed back to our hotel and said goodbye to Tung. He is such a nice young man and a wonderful guide. We hope to stay in touch and see him again someday.

We grabbed some dessert before turning in for the night. We all have travel days tomorrow – Grace and I are heading to Saigon while the rest of our group is traveling by car to visit Jeremi’s birthmother. I’m praying for Jeremi and both of his moms. It’s going to be an emotional day for them all.

Thanks for reading. Love, Kathy

Vacation Fail (Day 4)

Today was our second day on Halong Bay. After a good night sleep, we awoke to a beautiful morning. The scenery is breath-taking. Our group slowly gathered on the top deck and waited for our breakfast to be prepared. Bacon, eggs, and toast was a good way to start the day. Soon after our morning meal, we got ready to head out on a kayak adventure. I was so nervous, but Leanne was so kind and took me under her wing, and the crew members helped me board our kayak. We paddled around the bay a bit then headed off to explore a cave. That’s when I realized I was in the middle of vacation fail #2. I wore flip flops and of course got my feet wet exiting the kayak. Then I was trying to hike up the rock path inside the cave with my feet sliding all around in my shoes. I decided to try barefoot and that worked out really well due to the very smooth rocks. I did end up hanging back while the others kept going, but I had a lovely view of a little lagoon as well as the inside of the cave. We all met back at the kayaks and headed back to our boat. I was happy that our trip was successful and I stayed out of the water!

We kicked back on the top deck and were soon called down for lunch. The amount of food they prepare is crazy! We had squid (from last night’s fishing success), fish, shrimp, and a tasty cucumber and carrot salad. The dessert is always fresh fruit and today it was dragon fruit, which Grace and I both love.

After lunch everyone went their separate ways for some rest. The hum of the motor and the gentle rocking of the boat was the perfect combination for a nice nap!

Vacation Fail #1 actually happened yesterday but is continuing on to today and tomorrow. My camera batteries died!!!! I'm at the most beautiful place in all of Vietnam and I have no camera. I was completely sick and so mad at myself. Leanne and Joanne will fill in with their pictures, which I appreciate.

While the adults have been happy to sit and relax, the kids were growing restless. They got a chance to swim and kayak some more which was good exercise and fun.

We had another huge dinner, more squid fishing and a good night sleep.

 

Thanks for reading. Love, Kathy

Bucket List (Day 3)

I don’t really have a bucket list, but if I did, I would check one thing off today. We left Hanoi at 7:30 this morning with our guide, Tung, and drove 4 ½ hours to one of the most beautiful places on Earth – Halong Bay. We stopped half way for a break and walked around some shops – embroidery, jewelry, silk, and snacks. I bought Grace a beautiful pair of pearl earrings (her birthstone) for her 13^th birthday, which is in June. We also made another stop at a pearl farm and got to see the process from beginning to end.

Once we arrived at Halong Bay, we boarded a small boat that took us to our private junk (boat) and headed south across the bay. The scenery is amazingly beautiful. The weather was perfect – sunny, with a light layer of fog in the distance, and a great breeze. We crept along across the water, passing various kinds of boats and the beautiful formations jutting out of the water. I didn’t see it for myself, but the kids said the captain was steering the boat with his feet!

 

Jeremi and Noah

Grace, Meghan and Tung

Our Private Junk

Once the cabins were all sorted out, Grace and I ended up with the VIP cabin. It’s very beautiful and has glass doors that open to the back of the boat.  

Keys to the VIP Suite!

 

The VIP Suite

Our Private Deck



Fresh Grilled Shrimp



Fresh Squid



Fresh Clams

Tung and Joanne

 

After traveling for a few hours, we loaded into kayaks and a bamboo boat and toured around a small village. We stopped and saw the school, though the kids had already gone home for the day. We loaded back into our boats and headed back. I rode in the bamboo boat which was paddled by a very small Vietnamese woman who was so strong. She made it look effortless. The kids enjoyed kayaking around and were able to burn off some energy. They’ve had a bit of a hard time being off the grid – no Wi-Fi out here! It’s wonderful.

 

Back on the junk, we learned how to make fresh Vietnamese spring rolls – my favorite. Then we were served another amazing meal of chicken soup, fresh prawns, stuffed crab, fried spring rolls, fried corn, rice with vegetables, water spinach, and a few dishes I didn’t even try. It was just so much good food and there was just no more room!!

After dinner, the kids tried their luck at squid fishing and contributed to tomorrow’s lunch. Grace got “inked” but I was able to wash it out of her new swimsuit and got most of it off of her jacket. She thought that was disgusting and was not happy with the spraying, inking squid!

It’s late now and my girl is all tucked in and sound asleep, with another amazing day under her belt. I’m still awake and still pinching myself. I can’t believe we’re here and that we still have so much ahead of us. I could not be more blessed.

Thanks for reading. Love, Kathy

Hanoi (Day 2)

Day 2 in Hanoi is in the books. We started out our day with the breakfast of champions - pho!  They serve it differently in the north, no fresh herbs on the side, just lime and those little red peppers. Good for flavor, but I was very careful not to eat one.

Grace enjoying her morning coffee.

"I'm going to have pho for breakfast every day."

Yes, it was de-lish!

After we ate, Grace was ready to hit the town. We headed out toward the lake, to the bank to exchange money. She was so excited that we became millionaires!! She converted some of her money and was ready to start shopping. She made some nice purchases - a backpack, 2 wallets, and a pearl headband. We picked up a few gifts and had a great lunch at Aubergine Café. We rushed through visited the Museum of Fine Arts and took a cyclo ride back to the hotel. Along the way, Grace suddenly realized that she had lost her flip flop. My thought was "don't panic, I have 100 pair back at the hotel". Anyway, here comes this man running up behind us waiving her flip flop. So funny.

Our friends, the Austrins, arrived today at 5:00. Grace was very excited to have some friends to hang out with. They were joined by Joanne and her son, Jeremi. Once they were settled in, we headed out to dinner at the New Day. I ordered my favorite Hanoi catfish, Chả Cá. It was prepared at my table and it was delicious and cheap, but I still love Little Saigon better.

 

After dinner, the ladies decided we needed a little retail therapy exercise, so we walked up to the lake and looked around at some of the shops. I bought some little donuts from a street vendor and we all tried them. We couldn't decide if they were not fresh or were supposed to be on the tough side. They were good either way.

We rode cyclos back to the hotel and turned in for the night. Tomorrow morning is an early start.


More tomorrow!


Thanks for reading. Love, Kathy

Hello Hanoi! Nice to Meet You!

We arrived in Hanoi yesterday, Sunday, at about noon. We made it through customs and I was more scared than either time I was here before. Something about bringing my Vietnamese-born daughter with her American passport back into her birth country. The lady was very serious looking and more than once looked at Grace's passport, then up at her. If she could have seen a full view of me, she would have seen my knees knocking. Once she stamped our passports we were off to claim our luggage. Fortunately, all three bags made it - all of our crap belongings and nearly 100 pairs of flip flops. Then off to find our driver in the sea of signs. That was easier than I thought it would be. Off through the traffic and honking horns to our hotel.

The Green Diamond Hotel is on a little side street with tons of scooter traffic and shops. It's in between a banh mi shop and a jewelry store. Ms. Gam greeted us with a big smile, making us feel immediately welcome. Our room is on the third floor, up very steep steps, no elevator. It's very small, but quite adequate. A king size bed, a desk and small closet, and most importantly, an air conditioner! The bathroom is a one room show - toilet and sink and the shower drain in the middle of the room. No tub, no shower curtain, just the shower on the wall. I think it's genius, so long as you don't use the blowdryer when you're done!

After we settled in, we headed out to explore and find some necessities. We weren't a block away from the hotel and we fell into one of the biggest scams around. I didn't see it coming, but as soon as I saw the women, I knew exactly what was happening. One lady put the pole on Grace's shoulder, the other put a hat on her head and said "Photo, Mommy". Ugh. Two non la's, a bracelet, a bag of fresh pineapple, and promise to return to buy a t-shirt later, we were on our way to find the "market".

In my very tired mind I was wanting a grocery-type store where we could by some bottled water and snacks for the room. What Ms. Gam directed us to was much like the Binh Tan Market for those that have been, or an indoor Vietnam-style swap meet, for those that haven't. Way too overwhelming for Grace on her first day and I was doing that tired kind of wandering I do when I really shouldn't be shopping. So we made a circle through the colorful maze and found our way out the way we came in (by the hats, Mom) and stood on the curb looking shell-shocked, I'm sure. A very nice cyclo driver offered us a one hour ride, which we gladly accepted and we were delivered back to our hotel in about 30 minutes which was more than fine. He was such a nice guy and we enjoyed his humor. He asked me for a tip for "more beer" which made me laugh.

We trudged up the stairs to our room and pretty much crashed until morning. To be continued...

Ready for take off. Not so ready for 24+ hours of travel.

I hope we get to fly on a Hello Kitty plane!!!

Finally! Today is the day! Grace and I leave for LA tonight at 8:00, then take off from there at 12:30 for Taipei. I have so many feelings about this trip I just might burst. First, I feel so blessed – blessed by the friends who have supported us, blessed by the people praying for us, and blessed by God for putting us on this path. I am so excited and Grace is so exited and I’m so excited to see her so excited. I am anxious to see our Canadian friends and our Catalyst friends and our sweet adoption coordinator, Thuy. I’m nervous about returning to the orphanage where Grace lived the first few years of her life. I’m nervous about how she’s going to feel after being there again. And I’m nervous about crossing the street (the first time always makes my legs shake, but then we’ll be off and running.).

I am so happy that Grace will have this experience. I can’t imagine what’s going through her mind (she’s almost 13, so I don’t always have the privilege of knowing).  I’m hoping she’ll share and allow me to share, and I’m hoping she’ll post on her own blog. I can’t imagine how this trip is going to change her and how she sees the world. It’s my hope that she will be captivated by Vietnam and will leave with the desire to return again and again. Vietnam is catchy like that. Something about it gets into your soul and doesn't let go. I don’t know if it’s the beauty, the people, the food, or a little bit of each. I just hope she catches it. And please, Dear Lord, nothing else.

The Countdown is On...REALLY ON!

We leave in four days. FOUR. Are we ready? Mentally, yes, we are BEYOND excited. Are we packed? Well...not exactly. STILL.SO.MUCH.TO.DO!!!! I always do great at the last minute, but I drive myself crazy with that. I would really love to have it all done and just throw our toothbrushes in on Friday and go. Let me have a moment to think about that! Ahhhhh.

Screeeeech! (That's the sound of a record scratching)

Back to reality and the list of things still left to do. Three 1/2 days of work and school. A handful of errands to run. Laundry. And packing. I always over pack. I'm trying not to do that this trip. I'm hoping for one bag each with one extra for all the gifts, candy and flip flops we're taking along. That's a total of 3 check-in bags, 150 pounds, and whatever we can carry on. Oh, if I could only be Jeannie or Samantha and we would just be there with everything we need!

Oh, one more thing. We are leaving on April 10th, returning on May 2nd. Somewhere in the middle of that is a little thing dreaded by every adult American...April 15th. For the absolute love of everything red, white and blue, I have to file my taxes before I leave! (Please refer to paragraph one where I said I always do great at the last minute. I do so well at it because I've been doing it for 50-something years.) Calgon, take me away!

Praying for pre-travel mercies for sure!

Home Sweet Home

Monday, June 21, 2004

Well, as you know, I made it home safely.  I've had today to rest, unpack and review my pictures - proof that this wasn't a dream.  I had the most amazing time and am so very grateful to have had the experience. 

While I'm more than glad to be home, I miss Vietnam.  What a wonderful place, so full of new and exciting things - the bustling streets of Saigon, the sandy beaches of Nha Trang, the cool breezes of Dalat and everything beautiful in between.  I miss the girls from the Little Rose Warm Shelter and the sweet babies from the Tam Binh orphanage.  I miss dragon fruit and little bananas and eating scrambled eggs and french fries with chop sticks.  I miss the kind people and my new friends.

Would I do it again?  In a heart beat!  It’s already on my calendar for 2006. 

I’m still trying to let it all sink in.  I saw things from a tourist view and saw things that even locals don’t know exist.  It’s mind boggling that most of the people don’t know there are children in shelters and orphanages.  I’m sure that’s kept quiet by the government.  I saw some things from the viewpoint of the Viet Kieu (Vietnamese born people who left Vietnam) in our group, some returning to Vietnam for the first time.  I heard some of the stories of how their families escaped in 1975 just prior to the fall of Saigon.  I feel like I saw Vietnam through many different eyes and I can’t believe how blessed I am for that.

There were some humorous moments that I’d like to share:  One of the children at camp told Caroline that all the Catalyst people looked alike.  That doubled me over!!  There were 220 kids, all with dark hair and dark eyes, dressed exactly alike, so we all had the same feeling!  My little friend from Little Rose, Minh, asked me something over and over in Vietnamese, so we tracked down a translator and her question to me was “do you speak Vietnamese?”.  It took me 10 minutes to know what she was saying – so that was funny to me.  The night we did our dance, our costume was our red t-shirt worn inside out and bath towels wrapped around our waist.  We were all standing in the lobby waiting to walk over to the auditorium and a very nice European lady told my roommate, Barb, that her tag was sticking out of her shirt.  No mention of the ridiculous towels we were wearing!!  And after a particularly long day we were singing and dancing with the kids and I was about to drop over from exhaustion.  I said to Caroline and Amy, “please tell me we’re not going to sing 99 bottles of beer on the wall”.  We all cracked up!

I hope you’ve enjoyed my journals and I hope they all made sense – most were written late at night after some very long days.

Thank you for taking this journey with me.  I’ve loved having you along. 

Kathy/Kathleen

Home with Jet Lag

Sunday, June 20, 2004

Just wanted to let you all know that I made it home safely.  Thank you all for kind words and support.  K

2004 Vietnam Aid Expedition - Day 13

Saturday, June 19, 2004

Subject: Day 13

Today was my last day in Saigon - I leave tomorrow morning.  I'm a little sad to leave here but also anxious to get home to my own bed.

Another early day; I met Eileen and Amelia/Amy in the lobby at 5:30.  We took a taxi to meet Catherine and Emily at their hotel and then waited a few minutes for their adoption facilitator, Madame Chau.  She took us to Tay Ninh Orphanage, a two hour drive from Saigon.  Emily and Eileen's son, Joshua, were adopted from Tay Ninh.  It was such a privilege to be able to accompany them on the trip as most orphanages aren't open to visitors.

Quiet Saigon street at 5:30am

When we arrived, we were greeted by the orphanage director who took us on a tour.  It was a pretty sad place.  Very old and run-down and with an outdoor kitchen where they used a fire to cook the food.  There weren't many children there and only one small baby - a girl about a year old.  She was so sweet and in excellent condition - very clean and soft and not a mark on her (Many of the children we've seen have scabies and other skin conditions.).  I wonder if maybe she was one of the nannies children and did not live in the orphanage?  There were 4 small boys about 18 months old and several older children.  There was also a small boy - about a year old - who has hydrocephalus - a disease easily treated in the States, but this child will likely die within a year.  So, so sad.

I was surprised that there weren't more babies.  With adoptions being closed for 18 months, I expected the orphanage would be quite full.  Catherine asked Madam Chau when she thought adoptions would be opening and she said maybe October.  I'm not sure what that response was based on, but I will wait and see.  It would be great to come back to Vietnam again so soon.

Emily, who is 6, was a little overwhelmed by everything she saw today.  She was about 18 months old when she was adopted and the nannies all remembered her and hugged and kissed her.  I think it may have been too much for her little heart to take.  When we got back to the car, she was sobbing.  Catherine said she would not have taken her there had she known how it had deteriorated since she was there in 1999.  It's a lot for an adult to process, I can't imagine what she was thinking.

Eileen

Catherine and Emily

Me and Emily

We also visited a very beautiful Temple in Tay Ninh, just around the corner from the orphanage. 

Amelia, me and Eileen

On the ride back to Saigon, I sat in the front seat and got quite an eyeful.  That is the most traffic I have seen since I've been here and I'm telling you, some of those scooter drivers are CRAZY!!  Most don't wear helmets - Saigon leads the world in head trauma cases!!! 

I snuck in a nap when we returned to the hotel then headed out for more shopping, I mean sight seeing.  OK, shopping.  It's so fun and interesting.  And I've gotten pretty brave about bargaining.  I don't know that I've made any really great deals, but hey, a few bucks is a few bucks!

In the evening, I walked down to the Opera House (2 blocks away) to people watch.  I was expecting people to be dressed up but no one was.  Boring.  So I walked back toward the hotel and stopped into a French/American restaurant and had some dinner.  And a Diet Coke.  It will be so great to get home and have a big, big Diet Coke with lots of ICE!!!  I can hardly wait!

I tracked down Amelia to say goodbye.  She's leaving for home tonight.  She'll be back in NC for 3 weeks then she's heading to China to work in an orphanage over there. 

So many people in our group left here to do such exciting things.  A group went to Cambodia - 2 just for the weekend; the other 2 are going on to Thailand.  One family headed to North Vietnam to travel around another 2 weeks with their 6 year old adopted daughter.  One very young guy is going to Hanoi to do an internship and hopes to get a permanent position.  One adoptive mom here by herself is traveling down to the Delta area with her adoption facilitator and is going to meet her son's birth mother!  That's HUGE!

I've had the best time here and can't wait to come back again.  I've enjoyed sharing my journey with all of you and am glad that you've enjoyed it too.  As soon as I'm home, I'll figure out the best way to share my pictures and stories with you.  Again, thank you so much for your love and friendship.  I could not have made this trip without your support.

Goodbye Vietnam!

Kathy